Kotor

Dubrovny is one of the few remaining walled cities in Europe. About two hours south of split and just North of a Montenegran border, well situated amongst forest islands and cliffs, Dubrovy is the number 1 tourist destination in all of Europe. Massive cruise lines make stops there. Rick Steves swears by it, and hotels run three times the cost of anywhere else.

We did not go there. We went somewhere better.

Kotor Castle is one of the OTHER walled cities in Europe. Only, where Dubrovny has a deep blue bay well trafficked by massive cruise lines eager to disgorge there cargo of elderly comfort tourists, Kotor features a steep 1300 meter hike up the side of a cliff along and amongst the old fortress walls and towers that defended the walled town. For a mere 2 euro, you can give yourself FREE REIGN of the old fortress. There are no closed off areas. There are no guards or do not enter signs. There is a map given to you at the beggining that depicts areas of safe travel, moderate risk areas, and dangerous areas. Guess where we spent most of our time?

These are some of the best pictures, although there are many many more. The pictures below this were taken at an abandoned church on the cliff adjacent the fortress. There was a little goat path climbing up to it, with goats and cows and everything. The path and the church were only accesible through a little cracked hole in the fortress wall, which was only accesible by a eight foot vertical climb. After the crack we had to navigate a narrow, steep set of stone stairs to a little path. The church alone was worth the trip. It seemed like hardly anyone ever went in there. There was almost no graffiti, and what there was seemed reverent.

We might go back there to spend the night in the church, or in any of the other nooks and crannies that a clever backpacker could rest in. Kotor fortress was truly one of the coolest things we have yet seen. As for Montenegro in general, it was very... I dont know. In some respects, we had a a great time. Kotor fortress for instance. But in another, we did not make that many friends and even had some misunderstandings. There were people that took us in, for sure. They have an entire system here set up for that. People routinely rent out rooms, painting Sobe or hanging Sobe signs outside there houses. These rooms can be very cheap to moderate, but are almost never expensive. still and all... while they are cordial enough, there is not the hospitable feel that comes with taking in strangers in need (and we have looked VERY bedraggled and in need, at times). Things change when money is exchanged. As the euro touch their hands they suddenly morph from savvy negotiators, expressions sharpened by concentration, to crazily warm hotel clerks eager to care for us. It seems less genuine than our Albanian friends, who absolutely would not under any circumstances accept money or gifts of any sort.

The misunderstandings ranged from funny to sad. Funny, like when I was trying to get the Croatian girl that was sleeping in the adjacent room to teach me Croatian swear words, and sad like when we misunderstood the terms of our stay with one of our renters (the nicest couple wed met) and left a day ahead. They seemed really upset and wondering what was wrong with their hospitality and home. Hurt, thats the word. Below is a picture we took at a cafe we ate at that Spence says is wallpaper worthy. The other is my answer to those who say there are no fat Europeans.